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Transition

In the name of climate #18: wasabi under threat by climate change

We try, every month, to dispel some widespread beliefs about the environment, climate change and energy transition. In this edition: the crops used to create wasabi, the spicy green paste traditionally used in Japanese cuisine, are not doing well.

Wasabi is a Japanese plant used to create the eponymous spicy green paste, a staple of Japanese culinary tradition and widely used in the West. It grows wild in cold, mountainous environments near to rivers and streams, but it has also been cultivated for centuries: in recent years, however, wasabi crops have been severely threatened by rising temperatures, and there is now a risk that in the future the plant may disappear completely.

In most cases, the wasabi we find in western restaurants and in shops is a hybrid of wasabi and horseradish dyed green, because the plant used to make the traditional accompaniment to sushi is very delicate and rather difficult to grow, requiring specific techniques and climatic conditions.

The prefecture of Shizuoka, south-west of Tokyo, is one of the main areas where the crop is grown. According to data from the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forests and Fisheries taken from the New York Times, in the last ten years the amount of wasabi produced in the prefecture of Shizuoka has fallen by over 50%, due to climate change and human activity which have altered the ideal conditions in which wasabi grows.

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A prolonged increase in global temperatures raises humidity levels and increases the volume of precipitation in several areas of the planet, affecting crops (Cottonbrol/Pexels.com)

The wasabi plant needs temperatures generally below 20°C and takes around a year to mature. The more frequent heat waves caused by global warming have regularly pushed temperatures to above 30°C, reaching almost 40°C in some cases, making the wasabi plant more vulnerable to moulds and diseases and causing it to rot. Meanwhile, the quality of water - essential for the plant’s development - has worsened due to pollution.

For optimal growth, the wasabi plant needs abundant rainfall and constant irrigation, provided either by natural water sources or irrigation channels: growers fear that with climate change, heavy rain or particularly strong typhoons could causes floods and destroy the plants, further damaging production.

To confront the crisis in the sector, new technologies are being developed with the aim of artificially developing varieties of wasabi able to withstand rising temperatures. This kind of research is a lengthy process and requires sophisticated equipment: it may be ten years before we know which wasabi plants are more resistant to climate change, without even having the certainty that their flavour will be appealing and suitable for the food industry.